Friday, July 1, 2011

Eggplant Parmesan

I love to eat good food.  "Good" is a relative term I realize but I mean: food prepared with quality ingredients by someone that knows what they're doing.  Even more so, I love to be the one responsible for the "good" food.  In the vast realm of world cuisine my first and true love will always be Italian.  I have two years as a Mormon missionary in northwest Italy to thank for that. 

The first thing you learn, when as a culturally clueless 19-year-old in a whole different country, is that the American version of that country is usually a horrible pastiche of broad stereotypes.  The cheese is a great example.  I remember just months before I left going to The Olive Garden and marveling that a waiter grated parmesan cheese right on my pasta there at the table! Oh the pageantry of it all! (I have no idea if they used the authentic stuff.) Yes, in Italy they sprinkle aged cheese (often Parmigianino Reggiano, Gran Padano, or Pecorino Romano) on their pasta but it's done without the fanfare.  It's more like adding a little salt to season your food. (It was early in my stay that my soon to be life-long hatred of The Olive Garden and its ubiquitous mediocrity was seeded.)

As missionaries, living somewhat independently, we we're responsible for preparing our own meals.  Would you believe that the cheapest and easiest food to make in Italy was pasta?  I wasn't very good at it.  I made a lot of bad sauce and some other horrible travesties that are best left unknown.  But amongst the many wonderful things I took away from my two year mission in Italy was an intense curiosity into how food came together.

It really wasn't until I got back to America that it started gelling for me.  All the lessons I had learned in my many kitchen failures (and few successes) led me to the realization that I could not only cook but that I loved doing it. 

In the post-mission years I grew in confidence and skill and eventually hit a culinary plateau.  I would occasionally experiment with new recipes but largely stuck with the 9-10 Italian recipes I knew really well.  There were a good 2-3 years where I made and ate my own marinara sauce almost every day.  (The side benefit of that is I now make a FANTASTIC marinara sauce.)

Then I met a lovely young woman who was a good cook in her own right but loved it more when I cooked for her.  From this I learned an important lesson, the culinary arts becomes even more fun when you have someone ELSE to share them with.  The possibilities of someone to share my journey into world cuisine spurred me onward and forward.  But for all my experiments and restless search to conquer the cuisines of the world there are few things I enjoy more than a big plate of spaghetti marinara or eggplant parmesan.  Despite being raised in white suburban America on peanut butter sandwiches, Kool-Aid, and Kraft Mac n' Cheese, Italian is my food comfort zone.

For Father's Day this year, at my request, Amy made me eggplant parmesan.  This is a meal that is dear to me.  It was the first homemade meal I had in Italy, made by a real Italian mamma.  I remember my first delicious bite.  I had never eaten eggplant before let alone something like eggplant parmesan with its sumptuous layers of tomato, fried eggplant, and cheese.  It was incredibly delicious and I can probably count that as the moment my eyes were opened to what really good Italian food should be. 

Now, I didn't necessarily give Amy the whole back story but she knew it was a meal important to me.  Never one to shirk a solid challenge, she found a good recipe and forged ahead.  Luckily, she did a fantastic job.  It was delicious and tasted wonderfully authentic.  

What I haven't told her until now is that she is the only other person, besides me and that wonderful Italian mamma that has ever made eggplant parmesan for me.  That may not mean anything to anyone else but it means a lot to me.  It's a recipe I'm particular about and asking her to make it indicates a level of culinary trust I have in very few other people.  I can't say I had planned it this way but maybe it's an old fashioned conceit on my part.  Eggplant parm tastes best when it's made at home for someone you care about.  It's even better when a mamma makes it for you.

5 comments:

  1. Can Amy make me some too? I haven't been back to Olive Garden since my trip to Italy in 2007. Agreed. Not the same!

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  2. A friend at work who also served a mission to Italy gave me his recipe for basic meat sauce (with ground beef...shudder). It's a basic tomato sauce, but I prefer it with a lot of fresh veggies and grilled steak or chicken. It's probably still too American for most Italian affisienatos (spelling?), but I only use fresh garlic and EVOO. He told me that a true Italian cook would only use fresh basil, salt, and pepper, but I put in a slew of Italian seasonings that would probably turn your hair grey at the thought of them being all thrown in there together. We do top it with aged cheese that I get in a block and we grate right there at the table (no fanfare).

    The first time Russell cooked for me was my birthday while we were dating. He grilled salmon. How could a girl resist? We love cooking together and for each other. I'd love your Eggplant Parmesan recipe, if you are willing to share.

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  3. As with all my recipes there is some play as far as quantity of ingredients.

    Ingredients:
    2 medium eggplants
    Italian breadcrumbs
    3-4 eggs
    Olive Oil
    Salt
    1 28oz can Whole tomatoes
    1 28oz can tomato sauce
    5-6 leaves fresh basil (Or TBS. dried basil)
    4-5 cloves garlic
    ½ Tsp fresh thyme (1/4 tsp dried thyme)
    Pinch of sugar
    Pinch of black pepper
    1c. Parmigiaon Reggiano cheese (or a good domestic parmesan)
    3-4c. Mozzarella

    Directions:

    Slice the eggplants into ¼ inch pieces. Line a couple of sheet pans with paper towels. Place the pieces on the paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Lay something relatively heavy on top and let them sit for an hour. (This draws the bitter juices out of the eggplants.) Wipe off any excess salt.

    Set up a breading station with a bowl for the whisked eggs, a bowl of the breadcrumbs and a plate for the finished product. Dip the eggplant slices into the egg and then into the breadcrumbs.

    Chop the garlic. Open the canned tomatoes and pour them in a bowl. Crush them by hand until their at a consistency you like.

    Heat a heavy bottomed sauce pan and a heavy bottomed sautee pan. In the sauce pan put about a tablespoon of olive oil. In the sautee pan put at least ¼ inch of olive oil.

    In the sauce pan fry the garlic for a few seconds then add the tomatoes and sauce. Add the pepper, sugar, and dried herbs (if using). Put the lid on. Keep the sauce at medium high- high. Stir regularly or it will burn. The sauce should take about 30-40 minutes. It will thicken, the color will change to a deeper red and it will taste as if all the flavors have melded.

    In the sautee pan heat the oil until very hot but not smoking. Put a few (no more than 3-4) of the eggplant slices in the oil and brown each side. (You may have to add oil as you go along. The eggplant pieces are like sponges. If you do make sure to let the oil heat up every time.)

    Once the eggplant is fried and the sauce ready It’s like making a lasagna.

    In a baking dish put a layer of sauce on the bottom and put a single layer of eggplant slices. Then a layer of sauce and a layer of the cheese. Continue until you’ve run out of eggplant pieces. Top with a layer of sauce and cheese and bake at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes.

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